Many millennia ago, a most curious wonder thrust itself from the molten depths of Earth…a giant tree stump made of stone. Today, this stump is known as the Devils Tower, standing tall amid the mixed grass prairies and ponderosa pine forests of Wyoming. Dedicated by President Theodore Roosevelt on September 24, 1906, the Devils Tower is, in fact, the first National Monument of the United States.
Now, depending on the time of day or year, this mysterious landmark shifts in appearance. On a clear day, it is a particular shade of yellow-green while on a cloudy day, its face is darkened by shadows. With the setting sun, the Tower is set ablaze, becoming a fiery beacon on the horizon.
Although many will first journey to the Devils Tower visitor center, I recommend you take a hike…particularly since parking at the visitor center is limited. Therefore, rather than risk smoke seeping from your ears, begin the adventure early by hiking to the great Devils Tower. One most excellent trek is by way of Joyner Ridge and Red Beds.
Named for Newell Joyner, the monument’s most notable custodian, Joyner Ridge lies north of Devils Tower. Near the trailhead, there is a parking lot along an unpaved road.
As you prance along the ridge, enjoy brilliant views of the ever-present Tower rising up to the heavens. For all the birders out there, this trail is excellent for bird-watching, as you will likely spot many a turkey vulture circling overhead, ready to snatch up any stragglers. Indeed, over 150 bird species have been spotted in these parts from eagles to nuthatches to bluebirds. Closer to the ground are an abundance of wildflowers dotting the rolling plains and grasslands with reds, whites, blues, purples, and yellows.
About half-way along Joyner Ridge Trail, there is a connector path to the Red Beds Trail, which loops around the Devils Tower. Skip along here and marvel at the spectacular Tower set amid a vibrant landscape of red and yellow silt- and sandstone cliffs and evergreen forests. The idyllic scene is further accentuated by the Belle Fourche River carving a path through the sedimentary rocks. Be sure to be courteous to the furry and feathery ones hopping on and off the trail and wary of the rattlesnakes. You may even spot a deer or two hunkered in what little shade there is.
Eventually, the Red Beds Trail will connect to the Tower Trail, a paved loop around the Devils Tower. Here, the Tower looms large and so do the crowds. However, once you recover from the shock, the Tower Trail is well worth exploring, as there are many interpretive panels describing the history of this most renowned tree stump.
Now, a distinctive feature of this rocky sentinel is the sheer size of its columns, which rise hundreds of feet high and stretch to around ten feet wide. The Tower itself stands 867 feet tall from the visitor center to the summit. With binoculars, you may even spot the remaining 140 feet of the Rogers & Ripley Stake Ladder secured to the southeast face of the Tower. It was this very ladder that William Rogers and William Ripley used to summit the Tower back in my day in 1893.
Note: Distances, elevations, and durations are approximate.
The hike to the Devils Tower is fairly moderate, though this will, of course, depend on your fitness. The Red Beds portion may be a bit steep at times, but no scrambling or mountaineering is necessary. Nonetheless, proper hiking boots would be quite helpful.
During the toasty summer months, be sure to stay hydrated lest you wither away. Luckily, water bottle filling stations are available near the visitor center and in the picnic area and campground. Moreover, it is advisable to wear sunscreen and a hat to avoid becoming a lobster as you may be hard pressed to find shade…unless you plan on carrying an umbrella.
Finally, climbing the Devils Tower is permitted, and in fact, there are 4,000 to 5,000 climbs each year. However, you must be sure to adhere to park regulations, including registering before you climb.
Trek to the Devils Tower this season! As you venture out yourself, be mindful of the principles of Leave No Trace. Plan ahead, be considerate of others and watch where you step…particularly when there are rattlesnakes lurking about. Lastly, while photos do serve as meaningful keepsakes, you will only fully experience the moment when you set aside that camera for a few moments to enjoy the view through your eyes. Snap a couple of photos, but be sure to pay your respects to the Tower without distraction lest boulders tumble your way.
Here was a sneak peek at the one and only Devils Tower. Keep an eye out for more swooping out of the sky.
I hope you enjoy, and I look forward to sharing more unofficial wonders with you. Happy exploring!
The Unofficial Florence
